LONG BEACH // The Cape Peninsula

The Cape Peninsula is home to many tourist attractions, all of which are included in most tours through the area.  In one day you can visit Hout Bay (ferries to seal inhabited Duiker Island depart from here), drive along Chapman’s Peak, play with penguins at Boulder’s Beach, hike through Cape Point Nature Reserve, take a picture at the South-Western most point in Africa and experience the view from the old lighthouse of Cape Point. 

•••

Hayley suggested I take a trip around the Cape Peninsula, but I was already one-step ahead of her.  Cape Point was my final destination of the Six Unforgettable Experiences in Cape Town- the last box to tick off.

A self-guided, self-driven tour seemed like the best option.  I wanted to spend as much or as little time in each place as I saw fit.  I grabbed a map and headed upstairs for breakfast.  I planned my route over eggs benedict, coffee and fresh strawberry juice. 

Since the Chapman’s Peak Drive is currently closed my route detoured across the peninsula to Kalk Bay where I drove down the coast, passing Fish Hoek and Simon’s Town on the way to Boulder’s Beach.  I was interested in the local inhabitants.

Lovebirds.

In 1983, a mere two pairs of penguins were spotted shuffling in the sand.  The locals made a decision to protect the area in order to help the endangered birds thrive.  Success! Today, the penguin population exceeds 3,000.  And I don’t care who you are or where you have been, it’s hard for your brain to compute large amounts of penguins waddling across a beach.  It’s a strange and fun site to behold.

Part of the colony bathing on rocks.

After the penguins I drove down the rest of the coast until I hit Cape Point.  It’s a popular and well-advertised belief that here is where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet, however, this is not true (Cape Agulhas is the meeting point).  Nonetheless, Cape Point is gorgeous. 

Sign at Cape Point

Sir Francis Drake called it the fairest Cape in all the world.  With stunning views, wildlife and indigenous flora, he was right.  Bartholomew Diaz called it the Cape of Storms and with over 25 shipwrecks peppering the coastline, he was right too.  A lighthouse was built to warn ships, but unfortunately, it spent most of the time covered in fog.  A new lighthouse was built in 1913, on Diaz Point.  From Cape Point, you can hike up the winding stairs (or for less impact, you can ride the funicular) to visit the old lighthouse.  You are rewarded with 360 degree views of the peninsula.

The Cape of Good Hope is within walking distance of Cape Point.  I grabbed a bottle of water from the café and went for it.  I have now been to the South-Western most point on the continent of Africa.  Check.

Sign at Cape of Good Hope

I finished my Cape Peninsula tour by driving through the Cape Point Nature Reserve.  One advantage of taking a tour is the possibility to bike ride through the park.  The reserve is home to the smallest yet richest plant kingdom.  Over 1000 different species share the park with over 250 birds including ostriches, a few zebra, and antelope.  Beware of the baboons.  They are vicious.  

Ostrich family out for a visit around the peninsula.

Fynbos of the Cape Point Nature Reserve

The sun is started to set as I drove past the beautiful beaches of Scarborough.  South Africa is a truly magical place and I can’t wait to explore more of it.  

LONG BEACH // The Last Word

Within the small lobster fishing village of Kommetijie is a small stretch of unspoiled white sand beach known as Long Beach.  People come to Long Beach for easy strolls, dog walking and to ride the waves.  The view of Chapman’s Peak is divine.  

•••

It was one of those days where nothing goes the way you planned.  I’d successfully gotten lost even while using a GPS.  My shortcut ended up being a wrong turn.  I dropped everything I touched.  I was running late.  Machines were rebelling. My nerves were shot and my patience was wearing thin.

Finally on the correct path, I turned down the road to The Last Word: Long Beach. My eyes met the sea and I felt a tiny bit of tension release.  By the time I stepped onto the hotel’s balcony, everything bad had melted away.  The manager, Hayley, offered me a cool sparkling water.  With every sip I sank further into my chair, more and more relaxed.  I never wanted to leave this spot.

But lucky I did! Once I reached my room, I felt whole again.  I had a perfect view of rolling waves and distant mountains.  My bed overlooked the same view, and much to Hayley’s excitement, so did the shower.  Like Lawhill, this room boasted an open floor plan, something I’ve always wanted in a hotel.  I forgot all about my “terrible day”.  

The Last Word: Long Beach surprised me with its site-specific details.  All Last Word properties aim to maintain a familiar style of service, comfort, luxury and décor and they have succeeded in forming a reliable brand.  But, The Last Word: Long Beach goes the extra mile: the flowers on the bed and towels have been replaced with seashells, and each room has a woven beach basket complete with sunscreen, beach towels and sun hats.  Genius.  

The intimate details continued into the lounge and dining area.  Tables were adorned with glass tubes filled with sand and shells, and two sets of binoculars were waiting in the lounge for anyone who wanted to watch the mountains, dogs or surfers with more advantage.

The dining room is adjacent to the balcony making it possible to enjoy your breakfast or dinner outside.  Either way, you can take advantage of the amazing view.  And if you arrive in season, you can catch your own rock lobster from the sea and the kitchen will prepare it however you like.  Or if you want to keep your feet dry, I highly recommend ordering the seafood braai- a specialty of The Last Word: Long Beach.  It’s a collection of fresh-caught linefish and shellfish cooked over an open flame, served with salad and other varying sides.  If you love seafood, this is a must.

•••

During my stay here, I felt not only completely catered for, but cared for.  The entire staff did everything in their power to make sure I was having the best experience possible.  Surprises kept showing up at my door; a DVD basket, chocolate mousse, malva pudding, afternoon tapas tray.  And when I hadn’t made a reservation or come up for dinner later in the evening, they came to my room asking if they could be of service.

They were always smiling, happy and this in turn made me happy.  As I drove away, the entire staff came out to wave me off.  Even after only two nights, I felt as if I was leaving friends. 

CONSTANTIA WINE VALLEY // The Last Word

CONSTANTIA WINE VALLEY, Cape Town, South Africa

The Constantia Wine Valley Route is a road less traveled for many travelers.  Most tourists tend to turn towards the Stellenbosch, Franshhoek and Paarl regions.  This is a mistake.  Dating back to 1685, the Constantia wine valley is the original home of South African wine farms. The first wine farm was named after the Dutch-East India Company ship, “Constantia”.  Today it’s known as the Groot Constantia wine farm and is divided into several smaller farms.  Eight wine farms constitute “The Constantia Wine Valley Route” and with proper planning you can see them all in one day!

© Constantia Valley

THE LAST WORD: CONSTANTIA

Just ten minutes up the road from Bishopscourt lies a tranquil stretch of roads comprising the Constantia Wine Valley Route (Six Unforgettable Experiences).  I hit the road, driving past mountain landscapes against blue skies.  I was driving through a postcard, which reminds me, I need to find a postbox to mail a few off.

Even with a well-marked sign, it’s easy to drive past the entrance to The Last Word: Constantia.   The vibe here is less homey and more luxury.  The entryway greets you with three mini-waterfalls and a smiling concierge. At nine, this hotel has almost twice as many rooms as Bishopscourt, but still manages to maintain the personal feel.  The level of service, style, and detail I experienced at The Last Word: Bishopscourt seems to carry across to the property in Constantia.

Dining Room, faces the garden.

High Tea spread at The Last Word: Constantia

They are setting up for their high tea service as I’m led to my room. This time I have a pool suite and separated lounge area (complete with a decanter of sherry and cheese plate waiting for me).  I think it’s going to be hard to leave my room, my private and tranquil patio and dipping pool, but eventually I get curious about the well-landscaped gardens within the property.  The Last Word is a family run business and the garden is planned and managed by a family friend. Flowers have a huge presence.

Garden by the pool

Fresh lily bouquet in my room

Again, the attention to detail throughout the hotel is impressive.

Sam, the manager on duty whips up a double-decker sandwich to tide me over until dinner.  I can either dine in-house or at the neighboring Peddlars on the Bend, one of the most well-known establishments in Constantia.

I spend my first afternoon unwinding next to my private pool.  Relaxing is just as important as any activity you do while traveling.  It’s not often enough that we take the time out to just BE somewhere. This is the perfect place to do this, so I soak it up.

The best amenity with the Pool Suite

When I start baking, I go inside and book a sunset special ticket (which includes dinner) on the Table Mountain Cable Car. Booking ahead for the cable car is essential, and if you find yourself in good weather (read: clear skies and low winds) drop everything and head for the mountain because it is often closed due to unsuitable weather. Your ticket is good for 10 days and refundable less R10 in case you are one of the unlucky ones who never gets a weather break.  


This was my fate for the night...although there are worse things than being "stuck" in a fabulous hotel room for the night. 

BISHOPSCOURT // The Last Word

BISHOPSCOURT, Cape Town, South Africa

This leafy suburb of Cape Town started as a private farm and is now one of the must-have addresses in the city.  It is a very cozy and exclusive neighborhood whose residents include Nelson Mandela.  The best features are its oak-lined streets, lack of wind (which plagues the rest of the city), and dramatic mountain views.  

Tree lined street in Bishopscourt

THE LAST WORD: BISHOPSCOURT

TLW- Bishopscourt only has five rooms. I’m staying in Room 3, the Superior Double.   As soon as Tessa opens my door, I’m stunned with a spectacular mountain view.  My room is large and opens directly onto a little patio.  The décor is stylish and subtle. A welcome note is waiting for me on the bed.  The bathroom has heated floors, a stand-alone bathtub with bath salts, bath milk and bubble bath. “His” and “Hers” neck rests balance on the edge of the tub.  Both are decorated with a single pink flower.  Nice touch.

Superior Double

Separate Bathtub with neck cushions and bath compliments

There are no less than 25 flowers in my room.  I feel special.

Walking a little further out of my room is the infinity pool.  I spend an hour lounging by the pool until Shariefa, the chef, offers me afternoon tea and cake.  The air is clean and all I can hear is the pool flowing and birds tweeting. I can’t believe how far away from the city this feels. Well done.

•••

Sundowners are provided upstairs in the lounge, but I opt to watch the sunset from my room before heading to dinner.

Their signature dish is a traditional Cape-Malay 3-course set menu. It does not disappoint. The perfect combination of spice and flavor served with five freshly prepared sambals to compliment a homemade chicken curry.  The meal is finished off with a milk tart.  Everyone who is a guest at TLW- Bishopscourt should try some of Cape Town’s cultural fusion with this menu. 

Prawn springroll, beef samosa and snoek pate Cape-Malay starter

 •••

Around midnight, I found myself in a hot bath with a cold glass of local Sauvignon Blanc.  I’m quite enjoying the first box of my Bucket List and I haven’t even left the hotel!