THE V&A WATERFRONT // Robben Island & Waterfront

Robben Island is Dutch for “seal island”, but unfortunately is more well known as a place of social banishment. Since the 17^th century, the Table Bay island was used to displace diseased people, animal quarantine, and political prisoners (Nelson Mandela, Jacob Zuma and other political prisoners were incarcerated here during apartheid).  Closed in 1996 and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Robben Island is a sharp reminder of sacrifice and struggle that helped shape modern South Africa.

Aeriel View © Robben Island

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After breakfast, I walked from my apartment down to the Waterfront. Ferries bound for Robben Island depart four times a day from the V&A Waterfront and tours last 3.5-hours.  I was booked for 9am.  Luckily, following a breezy ten-minute walk, I arrived at the red clock tower next to the Nelson Mandela Gateway. 

Before I knew it, I was on the ferry and then docking at Robben Island.  Seals barked and basked on the rocks lining the harbor.  We filtered onto a bus.  It drove us around the island stopping to note old housing, leper graves, and limestone quarries.  Mandela is said to suffer from eye problems associated with his 13 years of labor in the quarries.  

Leper Graveyard on Robben Island

Across the island, we stopped on the edge of the water.  Our guide informed us that this was a favorite spot for the prisoners who were rewarded for good behavior with jobs by the shoreline. The waves crashed against the rocks and I tried to imagine this being my only escape.

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I don’t want to say too much about the prison as it is the highlight of the tour, but I can hint that you see Mandela’s cell and meet an actual ex-political prisoner from the island.  You can listen to their story and ask questions, so start thinking of some good ones now.  

Community Cell inside the prison

The haunting beauty about doing a tour to Robben Island is that its history is recent.  It was only officially closed 15 years ago, with its last prisoner being freed 20 years ago, in 1991.  This is a highly recommended tour, especially for those who want a more personal understanding of the road to the current South Africa. 

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THE WATERFRONT

I decided to spend the rest of my day perusing the Waterfront.  You are definitely spoiled for choice with everything here.  I spent forty minutes deciding where to eat lunch, eventually settling on a small Italian café with tables outside overlooking the docks.  I took my time, soaked it all in.  

I spent a few good hours exploring on foot.  I walked by The Eye, meandered through the traditional African craft markets, stopped to watch singers and dancers, and through the shops inside Victoria Wharf.  The Waterfront was alive and everyone there seemed to be having a fabulous day.

Musicians having a jam to traditional African music

 

Boats came in and out of the harbor and my curiosity got the best of me.  Following the foot traffic, I came across people selling all types of water activities and cruises.  The sunset cruise caught my eye, and at 18:00, I boarded my second boat of the day.  The wind picked up and I was thankful for the cardigan I bought a few hours earlier.  Actually, the wind was so hectic, I wish I’d bought two. 

Headed out to sea in Table Bay

We sailed out into Table Bay, were served champagne against the backdrop of Table Mountain and all tapped glasses at the setting sun.  The vibe was festive and relaxed and I felt so lucky to be there in that moment- sipping bubbly against a white moon, explosive sky, and twinkling lights from the Waterfront, all chaperoned by a Natural Wonder of Nature.  

There she goes.

So intense.

This was truly one of my favorite sunsets, ever. 

THE V&A WATERFRONT // Table Mountain

Table Mountain is an unmistakable landmark on the Captonian horizon. It can be recognized from anywhere in the city, and has even found its way onto the city flag. Its unusual flat top has recently earned it a spot on the New 7 Wonders of Nature list. It’s highest point is 1085m (3559ft) and can be reached via the Table Mountain Cable Car or on foot. From the top you can experience 360 degree views of the city.  

View of Table Mounta from Blouberg  © Wayfaring

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The weather in Cape Town has dissociative identity disorder.  A local once told me, “You can have all four seasons in one day here in Cape Town. Gotta love this crazy weather!”  As I mentioned before, the Table Mountain Cable Car is weather dependant. So when a frightfully hot and windless day reared its head, I fled for the mountain. 

Table Mountain covered by the "Table Cloth"

Fifteen minutes en route and another fifteen spent looking for a parking space.  The last cable car up was at 19:00 and it was 18:27.  I drove past a daunting line.  Luckily, I had purchased tickets online.  I walked in front of the queue, handed my ticket to the agent, exhaled and darted up the stairs. 

My ticket was part of a “Ride N’ Dine” special.  With it you aren’t allowed access to the mountain until 17:30, but once you reach the top you can grab a sundowner and toast to the sunset and also enjoy a meal from the café in the lingering light. 

I stepped onto the cable car with about 50 other mountain-goers, everyone fighting for a space by the window (Unnecessary.  After take-off, the cable car floor begins rotating so everyone has a fair chance to experience a 360-degree view of everything).  We glided over hikers, plants and rocky edges of the mountain.  The mountaintop got closer as the city grew tiny beneath us.  I am afraid of heights, but I managed.

Riding the car to the top

The shrinking city below

 

At the summit, everyone poured out and then scattered.  People had cameras out snapping away at the magnificent views; tops of neighboring mountains, clouds, lion’s head, devil’s peak, the city below.  

I ended up missing the sunset because I was inside the café fighting through the till line, but I was able to enjoy a slice of pizza and coke in the remaining soft light before heading down on the last car.  The ride down was even more spectacular than the ride up- the city was ablaze with lights and the mountainside was illuminated by dramatic ground lighting.

Just after sunset

The sparkling city of Cape Town

Although the weather often turns into gale force winds in the early evening causing the Table Mountain Cable Car to close, a sunset atop Tale Mountain is a don’t-miss.

Tip: Bring a torch.  There are no lights on the parking streets and it can feel dodgy in the dark.

THE V&A WATERFRONT // Lawhill Luxury Apartments

The Victoria and Alfred Waterfront was originally built by order of Prince Alfred, son of Queen Victoria in the mid-1800s.  Situated between Robben Island and Table Mountain, the V&A Waterfront boasts over 500 shops, 80 restaurants, 17 cinemas, 7 hotels, conference venues, an aquarium, a historic working harbor, and multiple craft markets... All this and more make the V&A Waterfront the #1 tourist destination in all of South Africa.  Impressive.

View from inside the Waterfront

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Driving down the N2 towards the city center, I had two realizations.  The first: my brain had finally accepted driving on the “wrong” side of the road.  The second: I was getting my own apartment in Cape Town.

The Last Word has treated me well.  I’ve had amazing service, comfortable rooms and outstanding views.  But sometimes, there is no place like home.  And that is exactly what Lawhill Luxury Apartments was going to provide me with- a temporary home.   

Living area of the Three Bedroom Apartment

I was most excited about having a kitchen.  I love to cook.

Security is tight.  I was required to register with the gate and take a photo upon arrival before being given directions to my new home.  Tucked away in the Marina Residences, behind a large hotel (whose services and restaurant are available to you within a short 5 minute walk) I pulled up to Lawhill Luxury Apartments.   

I try to hide my excitement as I’m led to my new home. 

Total sophistication and style fill the entire two-bedroom, three-bathroom open floor plan. Polished white floors, new appliances, comfortable beds and luxurious bathrooms. The place is seamless; the home I wish I had. 

Cast of Kudu horns

The entire back wall of each room slides open to an incredibly spacious wooden deck complete with succulents garden, sun chairs, lunch table and dipping pool.  The apartment is set aside a canal and occasionally boats float by.  The kitchen is fully equipped with everything I need to whip up my favorite dish.  

Modern Kitchen!

 As soon as I unpack and throw a small load of laundry in, I slide out my back door, slip through a secret gate and walk towards the Waterfront to buy groceries.  

Tonight, I’m a local.