Saturday, 19 November 2011

CONSTANTIA WINE VALLEY // The Wine Route

CONSTANTIA VALLEY WINE ROUTE



Eight wineries constitute the Constantia Wine Valley Route: Constantia Glen, Eagles Nest, High Constantia, Groot Constantia, Klein Constantia, Buitenverwachting, Constantia Uitsig, and Steenberg.  The Last Word: Constantia is at a great starting point- smack in the middleWine enthusiasts: its possible to do all 8 wine farms in a day; I decide I'll aim for half in order to get a good feel of each.  Besides, I'm on vacation- who wants to be rushed?

I did my research and learned that like Franschhoek, Constantia can lay fair claim to some of the highest rated restaurants in the world.  Constantia Uitsig houses two of them: La Colombe and Constantia Uitsig Restaurant.  Now I'm spoiled for choice between a culinary indulgence or a gourmet-style picnic lunch on the lawn of Buitenverwachting.  There are worse things to have to choose between in life. 

Breakast with a view!


I leaned towards a hearty meal at breakfast (I figured it was best when paired with wine tasting), and asked Sam to book a table at La Colombe for lunch.  He returned with my cappucino and a confirmation for La Colombe.  My cappucino was served with a flower and my reservation was for half one.  And, since it was a beautiful day,  I decided to add Steenberg to the list last minute. 



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Steenberg wine estate is either at the start or end of the Constantia Valley Wine Route, depending which end you commence the drive.  It's a pleasant 20 minute drive from The Last Word: Constantia, perfect for golfers and offers three wine tasting locations: a bar, lounge and special tasting room.  It was only 10am, so I decided to save my wine tasting until later, but even sans a wine or golf experience, stylish and modern, Steenberg is quite lovely to wonder through.  

Next, I drove about 10 minutes to Buitenverwachting.  The drive is serene, a girl trots past me on a horse, trees rustle in the wind.  The wine farm itself has an idyllic entrance and it's about a 5 minute drive through the farm to reach the tasting room.  Maybe it's longer, maybe it's shorter- I kept stopping to take pictures of the vineyards, sheep and horses along the way,  man in a tractor patiently waited behind me as I snapped away. 




The style of Buitenverwachting is less elegant than that of Steenberg.  It has more of a rustic feel.  A large group was picnicking on the lawn, dogs were running around or lazing in the sun.  The singular tasting room is simple and modestly decorated.  It feels more casual.  I tasted a white blend, the Buiten Blanc and then bought a bottle before leaving.



Down the road from Buitenverwachting is Klein Constantia.  It's a short drive from the entrance to the wine cellar.  This is an extremely small winery with an excellent selection of wines.  The cellar and tasting room are multi-leveled and have an old world feel to them, it must be the painted brick and lighting.  It feels underground.  

Here, I tried Madame Malbrook (named after Madame Marlborough), another white blend.  I'm no wine connoisseur, but I like to think I can appreciate a good wine.  This might be my favorite white I've ever tasted.  It was fruity, light and crisp with a slightly creamy finish.  Normally, I'm a red wine fan, but in South Africa, I'm more often drawn to the whites.

Tasting Area At Klein Constantia

Moving on, I head back towards Constantia Uitsig for my much anticipated lunch.  I arrive with just enough time to pop my head into their tasting room, around the River Cafe and for a slow drive past the vineyards.  

My table at La Colombe is outside facing a small fountain.  A large black menu board sits upright next to a large table.  You can opt for a 2- or 3-course set menu (with or without a 250cl carafe of wine) or to order from the large black a la carte menu.  Still full from breakfast, I order two starters: champagne poached oysters and the seared scallops and pork belly.  I ask to see the wine list and the waitress drops an enormous three inch high black book on the table which she calls "The Bible".  

The meal is fantastic.  The oysters are divine and the pork belly a well-worth-it guilty pleasure. The skin cracklings were embarassingly delicious.   And this was the best service in a restaurant I have yet to receive in South Africa.  

Complimentary Tapas: Beef Carpaccio, Prawn Bisque, Leek tartlet

Oysters lightly poached in champagne

I finsihed the day at Groot Constantia where they offer wine tasting in the cellar or in their spacious tasting room.  They also exhibit artwork, so you can sip and admire some of the genius and creativity in the glass and on the wall. 


The beginning of The Constantia Wine Route

For your experience, I would recommend taking a chauffeur service or taxi through the wine route so you can enjoy the wines from each farm.  If you have two days in the area, I suggest attempting all 8 farms and adding in the picnic at Buitenverwachting.  

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