BUCKET LIST DESTINATION #2: THE GARDEN ROUTE, SOUTH AFRICA

Along the southeastern coast of South Africa lies the impressive Garden Route.  It stretches from Mossel Bay to Storm’s River and is awarded its name for the diverse flora, numerous mountain views, lakes, lagoons and rivers found within.  There is also a high concentration of over 300 bird species flying throughout the region.  It’s beauty can be experienced in towns such as Mossel Bay, Sedgefield, Knysna, Wilderness, Oudtshorn, Plettenberg Bay & Nature’s Valley and the Storm’s River/Tsitikamma area.

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My second Bucket List Destination in South Africa was chosen based on its legendary expansive beauty and sheer amount of activities available.  There is literally something here for anyone and everyone. 

You can do it all along the Garden Route.  To name a few:

1.    Marine mammal watching: During the proper season (November -March) you can board boats an try to sneak a peak at humpback and southern right whales.  Dolphins and seals are also present and in some places you can do a swim with them.

2.    Adventure Activities: The Garden Route has become the destination for almost every type of adrenaline pumping activity.  You can live life to the fullest all the way up the coast with your choice of bungy-jumping to paragliding, black water tubing, ziplining and hiking. 

3.    Relaxing: There are so many spots of pure peace along the Garden Route.  It’s almost impossible to make it up the route without experiencing a state of pure relaxation at least twice.

4.    Birding: There are over 300 species of birds found in the Garden Route making this one of the best places to scratch your itch to twitch!

 5.    Arts:  The Garden Route is one of the most artistic areas of the Eastern Cape.  There are countless art galleries and craft markets dotting the coast.  These are good places to find up and coming as well as established local South African artists. 

 6. Golfing: If you are a golf fanatic, you should know that The Garden Route is home to plenty of green playing fields to suit even the most seasoned player.

Whatever experience you are searching for, you are guaranteed to find it.  I’m looking forward to the craft markets, adventure activities and some good old-fashioned relaxing by the lake.

LONG BEACH // The Cape Peninsula

The Cape Peninsula is home to many tourist attractions, all of which are included in most tours through the area.  In one day you can visit Hout Bay (ferries to seal inhabited Duiker Island depart from here), drive along Chapman’s Peak, play with penguins at Boulder’s Beach, hike through Cape Point Nature Reserve, take a picture at the South-Western most point in Africa and experience the view from the old lighthouse of Cape Point. 

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Hayley suggested I take a trip around the Cape Peninsula, but I was already one-step ahead of her.  Cape Point was my final destination of the Six Unforgettable Experiences in Cape Town- the last box to tick off.

A self-guided, self-driven tour seemed like the best option.  I wanted to spend as much or as little time in each place as I saw fit.  I grabbed a map and headed upstairs for breakfast.  I planned my route over eggs benedict, coffee and fresh strawberry juice. 

Since the Chapman’s Peak Drive is currently closed my route detoured across the peninsula to Kalk Bay where I drove down the coast, passing Fish Hoek and Simon’s Town on the way to Boulder’s Beach.  I was interested in the local inhabitants.

Lovebirds.

In 1983, a mere two pairs of penguins were spotted shuffling in the sand.  The locals made a decision to protect the area in order to help the endangered birds thrive.  Success! Today, the penguin population exceeds 3,000.  And I don’t care who you are or where you have been, it’s hard for your brain to compute large amounts of penguins waddling across a beach.  It’s a strange and fun site to behold.

Part of the colony bathing on rocks.

After the penguins I drove down the rest of the coast until I hit Cape Point.  It’s a popular and well-advertised belief that here is where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet, however, this is not true (Cape Agulhas is the meeting point).  Nonetheless, Cape Point is gorgeous. 

Sign at Cape Point

Sir Francis Drake called it the fairest Cape in all the world.  With stunning views, wildlife and indigenous flora, he was right.  Bartholomew Diaz called it the Cape of Storms and with over 25 shipwrecks peppering the coastline, he was right too.  A lighthouse was built to warn ships, but unfortunately, it spent most of the time covered in fog.  A new lighthouse was built in 1913, on Diaz Point.  From Cape Point, you can hike up the winding stairs (or for less impact, you can ride the funicular) to visit the old lighthouse.  You are rewarded with 360 degree views of the peninsula.

The Cape of Good Hope is within walking distance of Cape Point.  I grabbed a bottle of water from the café and went for it.  I have now been to the South-Western most point on the continent of Africa.  Check.

Sign at Cape of Good Hope

I finished my Cape Peninsula tour by driving through the Cape Point Nature Reserve.  One advantage of taking a tour is the possibility to bike ride through the park.  The reserve is home to the smallest yet richest plant kingdom.  Over 1000 different species share the park with over 250 birds including ostriches, a few zebra, and antelope.  Beware of the baboons.  They are vicious.  

Ostrich family out for a visit around the peninsula.

Fynbos of the Cape Point Nature Reserve

The sun is started to set as I drove past the beautiful beaches of Scarborough.  South Africa is a truly magical place and I can’t wait to explore more of it.  

LONG BEACH // The Last Word

Within the small lobster fishing village of Kommetijie is a small stretch of unspoiled white sand beach known as Long Beach.  People come to Long Beach for easy strolls, dog walking and to ride the waves.  The view of Chapman’s Peak is divine.  

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It was one of those days where nothing goes the way you planned.  I’d successfully gotten lost even while using a GPS.  My shortcut ended up being a wrong turn.  I dropped everything I touched.  I was running late.  Machines were rebelling. My nerves were shot and my patience was wearing thin.

Finally on the correct path, I turned down the road to The Last Word: Long Beach. My eyes met the sea and I felt a tiny bit of tension release.  By the time I stepped onto the hotel’s balcony, everything bad had melted away.  The manager, Hayley, offered me a cool sparkling water.  With every sip I sank further into my chair, more and more relaxed.  I never wanted to leave this spot.

But lucky I did! Once I reached my room, I felt whole again.  I had a perfect view of rolling waves and distant mountains.  My bed overlooked the same view, and much to Hayley’s excitement, so did the shower.  Like Lawhill, this room boasted an open floor plan, something I’ve always wanted in a hotel.  I forgot all about my “terrible day”.  

The Last Word: Long Beach surprised me with its site-specific details.  All Last Word properties aim to maintain a familiar style of service, comfort, luxury and décor and they have succeeded in forming a reliable brand.  But, The Last Word: Long Beach goes the extra mile: the flowers on the bed and towels have been replaced with seashells, and each room has a woven beach basket complete with sunscreen, beach towels and sun hats.  Genius.  

The intimate details continued into the lounge and dining area.  Tables were adorned with glass tubes filled with sand and shells, and two sets of binoculars were waiting in the lounge for anyone who wanted to watch the mountains, dogs or surfers with more advantage.

The dining room is adjacent to the balcony making it possible to enjoy your breakfast or dinner outside.  Either way, you can take advantage of the amazing view.  And if you arrive in season, you can catch your own rock lobster from the sea and the kitchen will prepare it however you like.  Or if you want to keep your feet dry, I highly recommend ordering the seafood braai- a specialty of The Last Word: Long Beach.  It’s a collection of fresh-caught linefish and shellfish cooked over an open flame, served with salad and other varying sides.  If you love seafood, this is a must.

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During my stay here, I felt not only completely catered for, but cared for.  The entire staff did everything in their power to make sure I was having the best experience possible.  Surprises kept showing up at my door; a DVD basket, chocolate mousse, malva pudding, afternoon tapas tray.  And when I hadn’t made a reservation or come up for dinner later in the evening, they came to my room asking if they could be of service.

They were always smiling, happy and this in turn made me happy.  As I drove away, the entire staff came out to wave me off.  Even after only two nights, I felt as if I was leaving friends. 

THE V&A WATERFRONT // Robben Island & Waterfront

Robben Island is Dutch for “seal island”, but unfortunately is more well known as a place of social banishment. Since the 17^th century, the Table Bay island was used to displace diseased people, animal quarantine, and political prisoners (Nelson Mandela, Jacob Zuma and other political prisoners were incarcerated here during apartheid).  Closed in 1996 and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Robben Island is a sharp reminder of sacrifice and struggle that helped shape modern South Africa.

Aeriel View © Robben Island

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After breakfast, I walked from my apartment down to the Waterfront. Ferries bound for Robben Island depart four times a day from the V&A Waterfront and tours last 3.5-hours.  I was booked for 9am.  Luckily, following a breezy ten-minute walk, I arrived at the red clock tower next to the Nelson Mandela Gateway. 

Before I knew it, I was on the ferry and then docking at Robben Island.  Seals barked and basked on the rocks lining the harbor.  We filtered onto a bus.  It drove us around the island stopping to note old housing, leper graves, and limestone quarries.  Mandela is said to suffer from eye problems associated with his 13 years of labor in the quarries.  

Leper Graveyard on Robben Island

Across the island, we stopped on the edge of the water.  Our guide informed us that this was a favorite spot for the prisoners who were rewarded for good behavior with jobs by the shoreline. The waves crashed against the rocks and I tried to imagine this being my only escape.

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I don’t want to say too much about the prison as it is the highlight of the tour, but I can hint that you see Mandela’s cell and meet an actual ex-political prisoner from the island.  You can listen to their story and ask questions, so start thinking of some good ones now.  

Community Cell inside the prison

The haunting beauty about doing a tour to Robben Island is that its history is recent.  It was only officially closed 15 years ago, with its last prisoner being freed 20 years ago, in 1991.  This is a highly recommended tour, especially for those who want a more personal understanding of the road to the current South Africa. 

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THE WATERFRONT

I decided to spend the rest of my day perusing the Waterfront.  You are definitely spoiled for choice with everything here.  I spent forty minutes deciding where to eat lunch, eventually settling on a small Italian café with tables outside overlooking the docks.  I took my time, soaked it all in.  

I spent a few good hours exploring on foot.  I walked by The Eye, meandered through the traditional African craft markets, stopped to watch singers and dancers, and through the shops inside Victoria Wharf.  The Waterfront was alive and everyone there seemed to be having a fabulous day.

Musicians having a jam to traditional African music

 

Boats came in and out of the harbor and my curiosity got the best of me.  Following the foot traffic, I came across people selling all types of water activities and cruises.  The sunset cruise caught my eye, and at 18:00, I boarded my second boat of the day.  The wind picked up and I was thankful for the cardigan I bought a few hours earlier.  Actually, the wind was so hectic, I wish I’d bought two. 

Headed out to sea in Table Bay

We sailed out into Table Bay, were served champagne against the backdrop of Table Mountain and all tapped glasses at the setting sun.  The vibe was festive and relaxed and I felt so lucky to be there in that moment- sipping bubbly against a white moon, explosive sky, and twinkling lights from the Waterfront, all chaperoned by a Natural Wonder of Nature.  

There she goes.

So intense.

This was truly one of my favorite sunsets, ever. 

THE V&A WATERFRONT // Table Mountain

Table Mountain is an unmistakable landmark on the Captonian horizon. It can be recognized from anywhere in the city, and has even found its way onto the city flag. Its unusual flat top has recently earned it a spot on the New 7 Wonders of Nature list. It’s highest point is 1085m (3559ft) and can be reached via the Table Mountain Cable Car or on foot. From the top you can experience 360 degree views of the city.  

View of Table Mounta from Blouberg  © Wayfaring

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The weather in Cape Town has dissociative identity disorder.  A local once told me, “You can have all four seasons in one day here in Cape Town. Gotta love this crazy weather!”  As I mentioned before, the Table Mountain Cable Car is weather dependant. So when a frightfully hot and windless day reared its head, I fled for the mountain. 

Table Mountain covered by the "Table Cloth"

Fifteen minutes en route and another fifteen spent looking for a parking space.  The last cable car up was at 19:00 and it was 18:27.  I drove past a daunting line.  Luckily, I had purchased tickets online.  I walked in front of the queue, handed my ticket to the agent, exhaled and darted up the stairs. 

My ticket was part of a “Ride N’ Dine” special.  With it you aren’t allowed access to the mountain until 17:30, but once you reach the top you can grab a sundowner and toast to the sunset and also enjoy a meal from the café in the lingering light. 

I stepped onto the cable car with about 50 other mountain-goers, everyone fighting for a space by the window (Unnecessary.  After take-off, the cable car floor begins rotating so everyone has a fair chance to experience a 360-degree view of everything).  We glided over hikers, plants and rocky edges of the mountain.  The mountaintop got closer as the city grew tiny beneath us.  I am afraid of heights, but I managed.

Riding the car to the top

The shrinking city below

 

At the summit, everyone poured out and then scattered.  People had cameras out snapping away at the magnificent views; tops of neighboring mountains, clouds, lion’s head, devil’s peak, the city below.  

I ended up missing the sunset because I was inside the café fighting through the till line, but I was able to enjoy a slice of pizza and coke in the remaining soft light before heading down on the last car.  The ride down was even more spectacular than the ride up- the city was ablaze with lights and the mountainside was illuminated by dramatic ground lighting.

Just after sunset

The sparkling city of Cape Town

Although the weather often turns into gale force winds in the early evening causing the Table Mountain Cable Car to close, a sunset atop Tale Mountain is a don’t-miss.

Tip: Bring a torch.  There are no lights on the parking streets and it can feel dodgy in the dark.

THE V&A WATERFRONT // Lawhill Luxury Apartments

The Victoria and Alfred Waterfront was originally built by order of Prince Alfred, son of Queen Victoria in the mid-1800s.  Situated between Robben Island and Table Mountain, the V&A Waterfront boasts over 500 shops, 80 restaurants, 17 cinemas, 7 hotels, conference venues, an aquarium, a historic working harbor, and multiple craft markets... All this and more make the V&A Waterfront the #1 tourist destination in all of South Africa.  Impressive.

View from inside the Waterfront

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Driving down the N2 towards the city center, I had two realizations.  The first: my brain had finally accepted driving on the “wrong” side of the road.  The second: I was getting my own apartment in Cape Town.

The Last Word has treated me well.  I’ve had amazing service, comfortable rooms and outstanding views.  But sometimes, there is no place like home.  And that is exactly what Lawhill Luxury Apartments was going to provide me with- a temporary home.   

Living area of the Three Bedroom Apartment

I was most excited about having a kitchen.  I love to cook.

Security is tight.  I was required to register with the gate and take a photo upon arrival before being given directions to my new home.  Tucked away in the Marina Residences, behind a large hotel (whose services and restaurant are available to you within a short 5 minute walk) I pulled up to Lawhill Luxury Apartments.   

I try to hide my excitement as I’m led to my new home. 

Total sophistication and style fill the entire two-bedroom, three-bathroom open floor plan. Polished white floors, new appliances, comfortable beds and luxurious bathrooms. The place is seamless; the home I wish I had. 

Cast of Kudu horns

The entire back wall of each room slides open to an incredibly spacious wooden deck complete with succulents garden, sun chairs, lunch table and dipping pool.  The apartment is set aside a canal and occasionally boats float by.  The kitchen is fully equipped with everything I need to whip up my favorite dish.  

Modern Kitchen!

 As soon as I unpack and throw a small load of laundry in, I slide out my back door, slip through a secret gate and walk towards the Waterfront to buy groceries.  

Tonight, I’m a local.