CONSTANTIA WINE VALLEY // The Wine Route

CONSTANTIA VALLEY WINE ROUTE

 

Eight wineries constitute the Constantia Wine Valley Route: Constantia Glen, Eagles Nest, High Constantia, Groot Constantia, Klein Constantia, Buitenverwachting, Constantia Uitsig, and Steenberg.  The Last Word: Constantia is at a great starting point- smack in the middle.  Wine enthusiasts: its possible to do all 8 wine farms in a day; I decide I'll aim for half in order to get a good feel of each.  Besides, I'm on vacation- who wants to be rushed?

I did my research and learned that like Franschhoek, Constantia can lay fair claim to some of the highest rated restaurants in the world.  Constantia Uitsig houses two of them: La Colombe and Constantia Uitsig Restaurant.  Now I'm spoiled for choice between a culinary indulgence or a gourmet-style picnic lunch on the lawn of Buitenverwachting.  There are worse things to have to choose between in life. 

Breakast with a view!

I leaned towards a hearty meal at breakfast (I figured it was best when paired with wine tasting), and asked Sam to book a table at La Colombe for lunch.  He returned with my cappucino and a confirmation for La Colombe.  My cappucino was served with a flower and my reservation was for half one.  And, since it was a beautiful day,  I decided to add Steenberg to the list last minute. 

•••

Steenberg wine estate is either at the start or end of the Constantia Valley Wine Route, depending which end you commence the drive.  It's a pleasant 20 minute drive from The Last Word: Constantia, perfect for golfers and offers three wine tasting locations: a bar, lounge and special tasting room.  It was only 10am, so I decided to save my wine tasting until later, but even sans a wine or golf experience, stylish and modern, Steenberg is quite lovely to wonder through.  

Next, I drove about 10 minutes to Buitenverwachting.  The drive is serene, a girl trots past me on a horse, trees rustle in the wind.  The wine farm itself has an idyllic entrance and it's about a 5 minute drive through the farm to reach the tasting room.  Maybe it's longer, maybe it's shorter- I kept stopping to take pictures of the vineyards, sheep and horses along the way,  man in a tractor patiently waited behind me as I snapped away. 

 

The style of Buitenverwachting is less elegant than that of Steenberg.  It has more of a rustic feel.  A large group was picnicking on the lawn, dogs were running around or lazing in the sun.  The singular tasting room is simple and modestly decorated.  It feels more casual.  I tasted a white blend, the Buiten Blanc and then bought a bottle before leaving.

Down the road from Buitenverwachting is Klein Constantia.  It's a short drive from the entrance to the wine cellar.  This is an extremely small winery with an excellent selection of wines.  The cellar and tasting room are multi-leveled and have an old world feel to them, it must be the painted brick and lighting.  It feels underground.  

Here, I tried Madame Malbrook (named after Madame Marlborough), another white blend.  I'm no wine connoisseur, but I like to think I can appreciate a good wine.  This might be my favorite white I've ever tasted.  It was fruity, light and crisp with a slightly creamy finish.  Normally, I'm a red wine fan, but in South Africa, I'm more often drawn to the whites.

Tasting Area At Klein Constantia

Moving on, I head back towards Constantia Uitsig for my much anticipated lunch.  I arrive with just enough time to pop my head into their tasting room, around the River Cafe and for a slow drive past the vineyards.  

My table at La Colombe is outside facing a small fountain.  A large black menu board sits upright next to a large table.  You can opt for a 2- or 3-course set menu (with or without a 250cl carafe of wine) or to order from the large black a la carte menu.  Still full from breakfast, I order two starters: champagne poached oysters and the seared scallops and pork belly.  I ask to see the wine list and the waitress drops an enormous three inch high black book on the table which she calls "The Bible".  

The meal is fantastic.  The oysters are divine and the pork belly a well-worth-it guilty pleasure. The skin cracklings were embarassingly delicious.   And this was the best service in a restaurant I have yet to receive in South Africa.  

Complimentary Tapas: Beef Carpaccio, Prawn Bisque, Leek tartlet

Oysters lightly poached in champagne

I finsihed the day at Groot Constantia where they offer wine tasting in the cellar or in their spacious tasting room.  They also exhibit artwork, so you can sip and admire some of the genius and creativity in the glass and on the wall. 

The beginning of The Constantia Wine Route

For your experience, I would recommend taking a chauffeur service or taxi through the wine route so you can enjoy the wines from each farm.  If you have two days in the area, I suggest attempting all 8 farms and adding in the picnic at Buitenverwachting.  

CONSTANTIA WINE VALLEY // The Last Word

CONSTANTIA WINE VALLEY, Cape Town, South Africa

The Constantia Wine Valley Route is a road less traveled for many travelers.  Most tourists tend to turn towards the Stellenbosch, Franshhoek and Paarl regions.  This is a mistake.  Dating back to 1685, the Constantia wine valley is the original home of South African wine farms. The first wine farm was named after the Dutch-East India Company ship, “Constantia”.  Today it’s known as the Groot Constantia wine farm and is divided into several smaller farms.  Eight wine farms constitute “The Constantia Wine Valley Route” and with proper planning you can see them all in one day!

© Constantia Valley

THE LAST WORD: CONSTANTIA

Just ten minutes up the road from Bishopscourt lies a tranquil stretch of roads comprising the Constantia Wine Valley Route (Six Unforgettable Experiences).  I hit the road, driving past mountain landscapes against blue skies.  I was driving through a postcard, which reminds me, I need to find a postbox to mail a few off.

Even with a well-marked sign, it’s easy to drive past the entrance to The Last Word: Constantia.   The vibe here is less homey and more luxury.  The entryway greets you with three mini-waterfalls and a smiling concierge. At nine, this hotel has almost twice as many rooms as Bishopscourt, but still manages to maintain the personal feel.  The level of service, style, and detail I experienced at The Last Word: Bishopscourt seems to carry across to the property in Constantia.

Dining Room, faces the garden.

High Tea spread at The Last Word: Constantia

They are setting up for their high tea service as I’m led to my room. This time I have a pool suite and separated lounge area (complete with a decanter of sherry and cheese plate waiting for me).  I think it’s going to be hard to leave my room, my private and tranquil patio and dipping pool, but eventually I get curious about the well-landscaped gardens within the property.  The Last Word is a family run business and the garden is planned and managed by a family friend. Flowers have a huge presence.

Garden by the pool

Fresh lily bouquet in my room

Again, the attention to detail throughout the hotel is impressive.

Sam, the manager on duty whips up a double-decker sandwich to tide me over until dinner.  I can either dine in-house or at the neighboring Peddlars on the Bend, one of the most well-known establishments in Constantia.

I spend my first afternoon unwinding next to my private pool.  Relaxing is just as important as any activity you do while traveling.  It’s not often enough that we take the time out to just BE somewhere. This is the perfect place to do this, so I soak it up.

The best amenity with the Pool Suite

When I start baking, I go inside and book a sunset special ticket (which includes dinner) on the Table Mountain Cable Car. Booking ahead for the cable car is essential, and if you find yourself in good weather (read: clear skies and low winds) drop everything and head for the mountain because it is often closed due to unsuitable weather. Your ticket is good for 10 days and refundable less R10 in case you are one of the unlucky ones who never gets a weather break.  


This was my fate for the night...although there are worse things than being "stuck" in a fabulous hotel room for the night. 

BISHOPSCOURT // Kirstenbosch & Rhodes Memorial

KIRSTENBOSCH BOTANICAL GARDENS // RHODES MEMORIAL

The next morning I woke up early, made a cappuccino in my room and took my time getting ready.  It was going to be a full day.

The breakfast buffet has a little bit of everything, but I can never say no to French toast with bacon and maple syrup, so I ordered from the hot breakfast menu.  All dining tables face the mountain, which always warrants a double take.  It’s so close it surprises me every time!  

My view from the breakfast table

•••

Tessa recommended I walk to the world-famous Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens (Six Unforgetable Experiences).  For garden lovers it’s an absolute must, and for everyone else I highly recommend it.  It’s one of South Africa’s 8 National Botanical Gardens and one of the “Seven Magnificent Botanical Gardens of the World”.  Its 828 hectares are filled with indigenous flora, birds and small mammals. It hosts lilies, protea (The King Protea is South Africa’s national flower), medicinal plants, succulents, cycads, tons of trees and an array of fynbos.  You can spend the day chasing guinea fowl and maybe even get lucky and see a bat-eared fox!

© Gardens to Visit

Protea flowers from my visit to Kirstenbosch

 For families there is a small rock pool for the kids to dip in.  Adults can pack a picnic to eat on the grass or dine in one of their many cafes or restaurants. 

It also houses various art exhibitions and events all year round in different areas throughout the gardens.  During summer they have a fun summer concert series that invites guests to tickle their ears on the grass in the gardens at night.

Sculpture on exhibit when I was at Kirstenbosch

I spent 3 hours walking through the different gardens.  I imagine it’s a totally different garden depending on what time of year you visit.  Spring must be exceptionally beautiful. 

Adventurous? There's a 5-hour hike to Table Mountain that starts at Kirstenbosch...but I'm saving Table Mountain for another day.  I decided to continue my day enjoying the view from a different mountain.

•••

Cecil John Rhodes was an English born South African politician.  One of his favorite places to escape to was a wooden bench on the lower slope of Devil's Peak, the mountain residing next to the famous Table Mountain.  Rhodes dreamt of an English- Africa.  Upon dying, Rhodes gave his land to the nation, and parts are now the University of Cape Town, Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens and the rest undevelopment. 

Rhodes Memorial

His memorial was built in 1912, fashioned after a Greek temple and at the bottom sits Rhodes' original wooden thinking bench (fun fact: The memorial contains 49 steps- one for each year of Rhodes' life).  The view from Rhodes Memorial spans across the city, across the beach and over mountains.  Lucky for us there just happens to be a restaurant and tea garden nestled on the mountainside where you can enjoy reasonably priced lunches, snacks, hot drinks and fabulous Sunday brunches.  

You may also start a hike of Devil's Peak from just behind the memorial. I settled for hiking over to a table at the tea garden and ordering a baguette and coffee.  I watched two little boys chase each other around the garden and play in the fountain.  

After paying the bill, I wandered over to the actual memorial, walked down the 49 steps and joined everyone gawking at the city below.  I felt lucky.  Where else can you walk off breakfast in one of the world's best botanical gardens, enjoy a light lunch on a mountain and then gaze out across and ocean while being next to one of the 7 Wonders of Nature? Nowhere, only Cape Town. 

View from Rhodes Memorial Restaurant (Notice the slanted trees.  It's from the winds.)

BISHOPSCOURT // The Last Word

BISHOPSCOURT, Cape Town, South Africa

This leafy suburb of Cape Town started as a private farm and is now one of the must-have addresses in the city.  It is a very cozy and exclusive neighborhood whose residents include Nelson Mandela.  The best features are its oak-lined streets, lack of wind (which plagues the rest of the city), and dramatic mountain views.  

Tree lined street in Bishopscourt

THE LAST WORD: BISHOPSCOURT

TLW- Bishopscourt only has five rooms. I’m staying in Room 3, the Superior Double.   As soon as Tessa opens my door, I’m stunned with a spectacular mountain view.  My room is large and opens directly onto a little patio.  The décor is stylish and subtle. A welcome note is waiting for me on the bed.  The bathroom has heated floors, a stand-alone bathtub with bath salts, bath milk and bubble bath. “His” and “Hers” neck rests balance on the edge of the tub.  Both are decorated with a single pink flower.  Nice touch.

Superior Double

Separate Bathtub with neck cushions and bath compliments

There are no less than 25 flowers in my room.  I feel special.

Walking a little further out of my room is the infinity pool.  I spend an hour lounging by the pool until Shariefa, the chef, offers me afternoon tea and cake.  The air is clean and all I can hear is the pool flowing and birds tweeting. I can’t believe how far away from the city this feels. Well done.

•••

Sundowners are provided upstairs in the lounge, but I opt to watch the sunset from my room before heading to dinner.

Their signature dish is a traditional Cape-Malay 3-course set menu. It does not disappoint. The perfect combination of spice and flavor served with five freshly prepared sambals to compliment a homemade chicken curry.  The meal is finished off with a milk tart.  Everyone who is a guest at TLW- Bishopscourt should try some of Cape Town’s cultural fusion with this menu. 

Prawn springroll, beef samosa and snoek pate Cape-Malay starter

 •••

Around midnight, I found myself in a hot bath with a cold glass of local Sauvignon Blanc.  I’m quite enjoying the first box of my Bucket List and I haven’t even left the hotel!

BUCKET LIST DESTINATION #1: CAPE TOWN, WESTERN CAPE, SOUTH AFRICA

© CapeIntern

Cape Town is South Africa’s oldest city and first appeared on paper by the hand of Portuguese explorer, Bartholomeu Dias in 1488.  Information about the city's prior history is left to rely solely on fossil remains and local rock art. 

It’s no secret that since 1488, South Africa has had a sordid past, but many people are unaware of this country’s resilience.  They have come quite far in such a short period of time.  People are friendly, the major cities are developed and it's surprisingly metropolitan. 

© Panoramio

I’ve chosen Cape Town as a Bucket List destination because it’s got it all- history, cuisine, mountains, ocean, nature, wine and shopping.  It’s even got penguins.

There are Six Unforgettable Experiences listed in Cape Town and I intend on crossing off them all.

1.    Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens

2.    Constantia Wine Valley

3.    The V&A Waterfront

4.    Robben Island

5.    Table Mountain

6.    Cape Point

And again, despite what you may have heard or envisioned, Cape Town is really a very modern city with plenty of safe places to stay.  You don't have to sacrifice style or luxury either.  Hosting a collection of unique properties in fabulous locations around the city and near all my points of interest, I’ve decided to stay with members of the Mantis Collection.  

Plus, you can’t go wrong with a name like that, right?

So, grab your suitcase and a pen and let’s start crossing off my Bucket List.