THE V&A WATERFRONT // Robben Island & Waterfront

Robben Island is Dutch for “seal island”, but unfortunately is more well known as a place of social banishment. Since the 17^th century, the Table Bay island was used to displace diseased people, animal quarantine, and political prisoners (Nelson Mandela, Jacob Zuma and other political prisoners were incarcerated here during apartheid).  Closed in 1996 and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Robben Island is a sharp reminder of sacrifice and struggle that helped shape modern South Africa.

Aeriel View © Robben Island

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After breakfast, I walked from my apartment down to the Waterfront. Ferries bound for Robben Island depart four times a day from the V&A Waterfront and tours last 3.5-hours.  I was booked for 9am.  Luckily, following a breezy ten-minute walk, I arrived at the red clock tower next to the Nelson Mandela Gateway. 

Before I knew it, I was on the ferry and then docking at Robben Island.  Seals barked and basked on the rocks lining the harbor.  We filtered onto a bus.  It drove us around the island stopping to note old housing, leper graves, and limestone quarries.  Mandela is said to suffer from eye problems associated with his 13 years of labor in the quarries.  

Leper Graveyard on Robben Island

Across the island, we stopped on the edge of the water.  Our guide informed us that this was a favorite spot for the prisoners who were rewarded for good behavior with jobs by the shoreline. The waves crashed against the rocks and I tried to imagine this being my only escape.

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I don’t want to say too much about the prison as it is the highlight of the tour, but I can hint that you see Mandela’s cell and meet an actual ex-political prisoner from the island.  You can listen to their story and ask questions, so start thinking of some good ones now.  

Community Cell inside the prison

The haunting beauty about doing a tour to Robben Island is that its history is recent.  It was only officially closed 15 years ago, with its last prisoner being freed 20 years ago, in 1991.  This is a highly recommended tour, especially for those who want a more personal understanding of the road to the current South Africa. 

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THE WATERFRONT

I decided to spend the rest of my day perusing the Waterfront.  You are definitely spoiled for choice with everything here.  I spent forty minutes deciding where to eat lunch, eventually settling on a small Italian café with tables outside overlooking the docks.  I took my time, soaked it all in.  

I spent a few good hours exploring on foot.  I walked by The Eye, meandered through the traditional African craft markets, stopped to watch singers and dancers, and through the shops inside Victoria Wharf.  The Waterfront was alive and everyone there seemed to be having a fabulous day.

Musicians having a jam to traditional African music

 

Boats came in and out of the harbor and my curiosity got the best of me.  Following the foot traffic, I came across people selling all types of water activities and cruises.  The sunset cruise caught my eye, and at 18:00, I boarded my second boat of the day.  The wind picked up and I was thankful for the cardigan I bought a few hours earlier.  Actually, the wind was so hectic, I wish I’d bought two. 

Headed out to sea in Table Bay

We sailed out into Table Bay, were served champagne against the backdrop of Table Mountain and all tapped glasses at the setting sun.  The vibe was festive and relaxed and I felt so lucky to be there in that moment- sipping bubbly against a white moon, explosive sky, and twinkling lights from the Waterfront, all chaperoned by a Natural Wonder of Nature.  

There she goes.

So intense.

This was truly one of my favorite sunsets, ever.